Monday, March 23, 2009

The Conch Republic





Home of Parrotheads, wreckers, Robert the Doll and Mel Fisher, Key West has quite a colorful past and present. Located at the southern end of the Florida Keys, it is the farthest south you can get in the continental United States. The actual island is only about 6 square miles not counting the lagoons and canals.
The drive down starts of rather boring, interstate highway to the Florida Turnpike. In western Miami/Dade, there are subdivisions and gravel pits. At the end of the turnpike at Florida City, traffic is routed onto US1. Built for the most part on the former East Coast Railroad, it crosses vast grasslands of the southern Everglades. To get to the actual keys, a new bridge replaces an old drawbridge, and Key Largo starts the journey. Made famous by a Bogart movie, it has the feel of most beachside town. Since it is the largest key, views of the water are rare. South of Key Largo the islands are smaller and water views are common. Bridges from small 20 foot spans to the famous 7 mile bridge carry traffic farther south and west to the end f US 1 at the Post Office on Whitedhead.
The island and town are essentially one with not town limit signs to be seen. The western end of the island is Old Town, the original settlement area and the tourist area. In the last few years cruise ships have started to use Key West as a port of call, much to the detriment of the town's quaintness. Duty Free shopping areas and the major chains are replacing the small mom and pop shops and restaurants.
Before the advent of cruise ships, Key West was mostly known for its alternative lifestyle. Gay men would flock to the island to stay at one of the many guest houses catering to men. Most located in old Conch style cottages enclosed in a compound with pool, hot tub etc, and clothing optional is the norm. Many gay bars lined the streets from the Copa in an old movie theater on Duval to smaller bars catering to niche clientele on the side streets.
The La te Da complex is alive an kicking with its guest rooms, restaurant, bars and show room. It is a convenient base of operation. The New Orleans House and Bourbon Street Pub are a short stroll up the street, along with the 801. This past Saturday night, a pedi-cab delivered a large drag queen in her sequined gown along with two yummy bartenders in Speedos for their shifts. This is the same bar where on New Year's Eve, a drag queen named Sushi is lowered in a large red slipper.
The 801 is a more laid back kind of neighborhood bar. With doors and windows opening right onto the Duval sidewalk, tourists cannot not help but peak in. Upstairs is a show room where performances are held nightly and the performers stand out front to attract people into the show. Something that the straight tourist would not do at home, but since they are on vacation in Key West, it is okay. Attached is Saloon One on the side street and is much more cruisy.
After checking into the Fairfield Inn, we took the bus to town. We had lunch at the Conch Republic Seafood Company overlooking the marina. Several of the afternoon cruises pulled out loaded with tourist to do some snorkeling, look for dolphins and just enjoy the great weather.
With lunch done we walked to Duval Street and headed south. Since there was no cruise ship in port the sidewalks were manageable. Eventually we made it to the far south end after numerous stops along the way for browsing, shopping and a few photo ops. A quick spin past the Southernmost Point Monument and then back up Duval. After all that walking, a drink was needed and the $2 mojitos at Island Dogs quenched it well.
Some more wandering around and then a stop at Mallory Square. Unfortunately it was too early and the sunset vendors were just arriving for the nightly show. Bargain tee-shirt shopping and then the search for dinner. Menus are posted outside to make selection easier. Christine's was the front runner until it started to rain, and most of their seating is al fresco. Jack Flatts finished first.
Inside Jack Flatts was a rowdy sports themed bar. Maybe because all the televisions, at least 6, were turned to the NCAA Tournament. Luckily our booth was in front of the UNC vs LSU game, GO HEELS!! My roommate was for LSU since it was the last SEC team left, though he went to Auburn, but I informed him that I could make a four hour drive very annoying. Plus, I'm a UNC graduate. There seemed to be an equal number of fans for both sides, but LSU ended up loosing. After the UNC lead was more than 10, other closer games were switched on by the network. BTW, the food was quite good and very reasonable.
Back on Duval after dinner we headed back to the hotel. we flagged down one of the pedi-cabs, but he said it would be like $50 to get there, so we passed it up. Since the Fairfield was out on N Roosevelt, there would be no return fare and we think that was why the price was high. So we walked the mile and a half back.
On Sunday we enjoyed the free continental breakfast and checked out of the room. It was a grey overcast morning and we took a tour of the island. Just before lunch we headed back to Fort Lauderdale for a late afternoon nap. The drive home became sunny after about an hour of driving and was an easy trip, no wrecks on US1.
If Key West seems like a fun place to visit, it is. There are many options of gay guesthouses to gay friendly resorts and spas. Damron Vacations can help make all your arrangements. So plan a trip to America's Caribbean and enjoy the slow lane where most people walk, ride a bike or scooter, or takes a pedi-cab. your stress will melt away in the warm tropical sun.

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